From cemeteries to food, here’s how to make the most out of the three day traditional holiday.
Xoxo Cemetery
Xoxo cemetery is the exact idyllic image you have before coming to México, only bigger and with better lighting. The cemetery itself is stunning, with tea light candles and marigolds on every grave. Families arrange various designs on the coffins - from a simple cross, to more extravagant designs such as skeletons drawn with sand. Take time to walk around the cemetery, and if you pass a family, ask which of their beloved they are visiting. They may very well ask you to sit with them and offer you a shot of mezcal. Just be aware that it is both a night of celebration, but also marks the death of a family member. Be respectful, watch your step and know the boundaries of your camera!
Atzompa Cemetery
Atzompa differs from Xoxo in the sense that the cemetery feels older. All the graves here are decorated with tall altar candles, and the paths between graves are very narrow. Families cluster together and I would suggest leaving the families to themselves. There are no mariachi bands, however, there is plenty of music coming from the stage on the left. To clarify, yes, there is actually a festival right next door to a small, family-focused cemetery, which also has food stalls on the road. While Xoxo may be more inviting to tourists, visiting Atzompa is a worthwhile trip, especially if you want to end the night with a boogie!
San Antonio Cemetery
This is a daytime celebration which happens on November the 3rd. It’s filled with so many flowers I’m not actually sure how the florists haven’t run out, and it smells like a Lenor advert. Here, the best-decorated grave wins a prize: families will cluster together, cut flower heads, and press them into the sand of the grave to create various designs. As it’s during the day, it’s a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere. Possibly a better option if you have young children. Though equally great if you just want to extend your cemetery experience.
Visit a Pastry Shop
Visiting a pasty shop is absolutely essential in the week leading up to Día de los Muertos. Make sure to visit Pastelería Madrid or a similar bakery that specialises in pastries. Avoid buying from general stores or markets as the bread may be stale. Pan de Muertos is a bumpy-looking loaf coated in sugar, and if fresh, is lighter than a cloud to eat. Some places will serve it with a filling. Try both. Another to try is a loaf that has a little face on it. The bumps represent bones, so essentially this bread symbolises the body. There’s also an array of sugar skulls, chocolate skulls, and other delicious-looking things.
Tip - in México, you pick up a large silver tray and some tongs and place your selection on the tray. They’ll bag all of your treats at the counter.
Experience the Marigolds
Here, marigolds are a representation of the sun, and it’s believed that they help the departed find their way back. If you get the opportunity, smell wild marigolds - they’re tiny little flowers the size of daisies, and smell considerably stronger than their larger counterparts. In October you will find marigold petals garnishing your meals and decorating your cocktails. I recommend Casa Oaxaca https://www.casaoaxacaelrestaurante.com for a Día de los Muertos themed cocktail, salsa they grind at the table and a delicious meal.
Witness the Parades and the Decorations
If you thought the UK goes all out for Christmas, you should see México at this special time. Every single business and home decorate for the occasion. Which makes it a great time to walk around the city. Expect skeletons hanging off of balconies, falling out of windows, and sitting on bar stools. In the days leading up to the 31st, get ready to witness parades composed of orchestras, women in traditional dresses and face paint, and people in genuinely terrifying masks. On the walk home, you can use the decorations to recall the way you came.
Get Your Face Painted… and Your Dogs
Dogs are everywhere in México. It is believed that the Xoloitzcuintli (a hairless dog) guides the souls of the dead through the underworld. The journey takes four years, which is why water, food, incense, marigolds and photographs of the beloved are placed on altars every year during Día de los Muertos. Possibly the best thing about this is that people paint their dogs as skeletons or dress them up in various costumes. As for yourself, buying a flower crown and getting your face painted at the Zócalo square is completely accepted as a means for tourists to join in with the celebrations.
Make an Altar
Depending on your accommodation, there may be an altar where you can add a photograph of a departed loved one. This was a really beautiful personal touch, and I was able to include a photo of my grandmother alongside other guests' family photos. It made me feel more immersed in the spiritual celebrations than any face paint could.
Watch Coco
You’ve walked through the streets, you have a bag full of delicious pastries and a box of tissues. Get ready to watch Coco. It’s been really interesting to hear Mexicans take on this animated film. It’s a great reference point to explain certain aspects of the celebration and has had a positive impact on the younger generation in celebrating their traditions. The accuracy of Pixar and Disney’s work has been commended for its detail. It’s a widely acclaimed film - one of my favourites. Only those with a heart of stone won’t be crying.
Visit a Mezcaleria
Mezcaleria's are mezcal-specific bars, and are the perfect place to soak up the atmosphere. I’ve found that they’re usually quite small buildings which makes each one uniquely personal. If you’ve never tried mezcal before, I recommend participating in a tasting session before walking into a Mezcaleria. Mainly because of the range of mezcal available (you will definitely enjoy one of them), and because it is to be sipped, not shot. Do not treat this like tequila. It’s bolder bodied, to be drunk on every occasion, and is served with an orange slice as opposed to a lime. Etnofood’s tasting session was one I particularly enjoyed, with an enthusiastic bartender and a great atmosphere. They also offer a mixology class as well as a vegetarian cooking class. https://en.ethnofood.org
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION -
How to Visit the Cemeteries
In the week leading up to the celebration, cemetery tours are on sale in the Zócalo square. Another option is to walk or get a taxi to the cemetery itself. As a solo female traveller, I booked a B&B that included a cemetery tour, however having visited I feel that it is busy and well-lit enough to feel safe visiting without a guide.
Replicate the Experience
This writer stayed at La Betulia Bed and Breakfast, Oaxaca https://www.labetulia.com/dayofthedead which has a dedicated five-day Día de los Muertos Tour. It includes a private room, full board with dinner at various Oaxacan restaurants, and multiple tours. Whichever way you decide to celebrate Día de los Muertos, note that accommodation in Oaxaca will be fully booked up to four months prior to the event. This includes Airbnb, hotels and hostels. To avoid disappointment, I recommend booking six months in advance.
Other Things To Do
Hierve El Agua is non-negotiable if you’re visiting Oaxaca. This is where you’ll find the famous Lonely Tree of México and Jade mountainscapes. I suggest booking with Coyote Adventures as you arrive at the waterfalls before the wave of tourists arrive. They also include a traditional breakfast with a local family, a hike, mezcal tasting and lunch! It really is a fantastic day. https://coyoteaventuras.com/project/ultimate-hierve-el-agua-hike-mezcal/
Comments